Budapesting: Part 2

Day two dawned bright and breezy, so we decided to head out to climb the intimidating Gellert Hill. In order to bribe ourselves to the top, we promised that we would pay a visit to the Gellert baths on the other side of the hill afterwards, to soothe our aching legs!

Atop Gellert Hill

However, as huge as the hill looked from the bottom, and as far away as the majestic Liberty statue looked, it actually only took us twenty minutes to hike to the top! On the way we paused here and there to take in the stunning panoramas of the city - rivalling those we had seen yesterday from Castle Hill!

At the summit, the stone plinth surrounding the statue's base was already teeming with tourists. This was probably due to the gloriously crisp, sunny morning. It was strange to watch people don their sunglasses, squinting, as their breath misted away from them in subtle spirals.

The short hike is more than worth it, for more reasons than the statue alone; There is a mini-market at the top with mahoghany-brown huts, selling everything from paprika, to clothing, to sweet-smelling fat sausages. I definitely recommend a trip to the top - both for the views and to breathe in the unique thin air.

The way back down is more easy-going than the way up, zig-zagging diagonally across the hill. As we descended, we saw the spires of the iconic Gellert hotel marching ever closer to us. The imposing archetecture of this hotel in particular served as Wes Anderson's inspiration for The Grand Budapest Hotel!

The Gellert Baths

Even the entrance hall was beautifully decorated, abundant in greco-roman statues and coloured glass windows that filled the room with rainbows.

Skint Budapesting tip - if you're not shy, do as we did and only pay for a locker, rather than a cabin.

These were our favourite baths. Not only because of the decadent decor, but also there wasn't any pool, sauna or steam room that was too busy. We felt like we got a really authentic taste of Budapest's bathhouses. I felt like a nineteenth-century European noble, come to "take the waters!"

After an hour or so of quietly boiling in hot water, we were so relaxed we were pretty much jelly! So we headed back to our apartment. As it was only mid-afternoon, Mum had the genius idea of trying to find a cruise along the Danube. The thinking behind this: We would get to see more of the sights, further along the river than we had yet been, but we wouldn't have to use our legs!

I believe the particular boat we went on was called the Duna Bella, but we walked past so many different options - including some more expensive ones with dinner on board - that you can always find something to fit your needs and budget.

Journey to Margaret Island

We found the perfect cruise - one that left early evening, stopped off at Margaret Island, and then would (hopefully!) cruise back in the dark, allowing us to see the city at night.

I would definitely say that it is worth doing a cruise, as the city looked so beautiful from the river - both the buildings and the water itself seem to take on a glittering glamour through the grubby windows!

Margaret Island is also worth a visit. Reminiscent of Central or Hyde Park, the island is a well-kept, calm oasis of green in the grey and silver city. As we cruised up to our dock we could make out runners jogging around the perimeter of the island!

Margaret Island

If, like us, you are only there for an hour or so, the two things I would recommend to visit would be the famous water tower, a noble landmark near the middle of the island, and the 13th century ruins of a Franciscan church and a Dominican church and convent. Our boat tour also told us some of the legends surrounding St Margaret.

SKINT TIP: the public toilets were closed, but as we were sweet to the doorman, we snuck into the Grand Hotel to use the loo! The hotel has a gorgeous foyer, bar and a little shop to look around.

Once it began getting dark, we headed back to the dock to catch the boat back. We were early, and it was late, but we didn't mind as the view of the darkening river, reflecting the lights coming on in the buildings, was beautiful as a painting.

My favourite thing about the way back was the fact that they kept the lights lowered, so the faces around me were illuminated mostly by the warm amber glow of the city lights.

Beautiful Budapest at Night

Stand by for part three, which I will try and publish before I leave on Tuesday - featuring the coolest place I've ever been! I'll give no more away. See you there.

Yours,

Char

xxx

More