Budapesting: Part 4

The key to the Budapest atmosphere was twofold: the smell of paprika, and the feeling of grand nobility and history that filled the city - from the splendour of Castle Hill to the most decrepit six-story apartment block.

The Hungarian Houses of Parliament, on the Pest bank - the state offsetting the rule of the nobility, represented by the imposing palace on Castle Hill - cut a beautiful, gothic silhouette against the pale sky. Together, these two domes, along with St Stephen’s Basilica and Gellert Hill, dominated the skyline of Budapest, from any vantage point.

I count myself lucky to have had enough time to see all these different landmarks, and to explore and have adventures. But, unfortunately, my Budapest adventure was coming to an end.

We woke up on our final morning in Budapest feeling bittersweet as orange juice; We were sad to be leaving this glittering gem of a city, but on the other hand, we were excited to be in our own beds - Mum especially, as this trip was the longest she had ever been away from my Dad since they got married! We spent our morning cleaning up our little flat, checking and double-checking that we had got our toothbrushes out of the bathroom. Our delicious breakfast, consisting of everything left in the fridge/cupboard, set us up for the day. We made the little bed, and said goodbye to the photo of the red dog that was the apartment’s namesake.

The Last Breakfast

We had to be out by midday, so we took our little carry-on suitcases down in the rickety lift - that by now held no fear for us - and posted the keys through the letterbox. Our plans in place to while away the hours between now and our early evening flight were scant, but by this point in our holiday, we were content to go with the flow and see how the afternoon went.

The one thing we were determined to do was visit the Szechenyi Baths, situated in the sprawling city park. However, to get there, we had a half-hour hike ahead of us, down wide streets decked with greenery and proud buildings old and new. Although we enjoyed the sights and the sunshine, we were soon sweating it out under the strain of our suitcases, and we were relieved when the majesty of the Heroes’ Square emerged, as if out of nowhere.

Heroes' Square

As we walked under the arches, and made our way into the park, we were greeted by the most beautiful sights of iced-over lakes, neo-gothic palaces and museums.

Although we didn't go in, it was worth walking around the perimeter, and seeing some of the sights that the park had to offer.

The Park's Sights

I feel like the photos speak for themselves, here. Mum and I found ourselves just gawping, not knowing where to point our cameras. There was beauty, history and culture all around us.

But time was running short, so we turned and headed for the baths. From the iconic spire to the mosaic interior ceiling, Szechenyi had a unique sense of grandeur that I can only compare to St Paul's Cathedral - that's how beautiful the ticket hall was!

However, it was a different story once we got inside...

One thing I will say about these baths is that it was extremely hard not to compare them, on every point, with Gellert Baths, as those were the first baths we visited, and they set the bar so high!However, Szechenyi has something that the other baths lacked - their outdoor pool was open!

My jaw dropped when I stepped outside and saw the sunlit pools, topped with ringlets of rising steam, filled to bursting with eager tourists chatting, taking selfies, or simply relaxing in the warm water.

Szechenyi Baths

We did the rounds of taking photos, and then hurried back to our cabins to put our phones away in safety, so we wouldn’t have to worry about them by the side of the pool. Perhaps it was the theatre usher in me, but all I could think was “Put your phone away! You’re going to drop it in the water! Just enjoy the moment!” But I must admit, Mum and I did have fun wincing and laughing at the close calls, as selfie sticks twisted in slippery grips and expensive iPhones nearly met their doom, only to be caught up by their owners at the last minute! We didn’t witness a fatality, luckily, but my advice would still be that, if you don’t want to end up performing rice-CPR on your phone, stash it somewhere safe. After the baroque gorgeousness of the building’s exterior, the inside pools and saunas were a little... well... disappointing. Plain. Maybe it was the complex’s sprawling size, but it didn’t seem as well-looked-after as Gellert; There were several pools that I just couldn’t bring myself to climb down into - and more than one room in which I exclaimed to my mother in an embarrassed whisper: “Is it just me, or does this pool smell like chicken soup?!” However, we were there on a bank holiday, so we figured it was particularly busy - chances are we just caught them on an off day. And the experience of the outdoor pool made the whole thing worth it!

After we had finished quietly boiling in chicken soup, we headed to our cabin to change. By the time we left the way we came in, groggy from the heat of the baths, and squinting in the sun, we didn’t know which way was up! All we knew was that our bellies were rumbling and we were ready for some food. So we were drawn in, straight away, to the Szechenyi restaurant, which is situated round one side of the building, in a kind of big-top tent-slash-gazebo. Now, let’s be clear, folks - this was NOT a SKINT choice. The whole place reeked of luxury... or at least aspired to luxury. The bar in the centre of the room is clad in red velour material, and the waiters wore fancy suits. However, the service didn’t quite live up to the prices, even though the food was delicious. It was a rare instance of Mum ordering a nicer meal than me, as she ordered a delicious spinach lasagna, which far surpassed my duck dish. Always go veggie, folks! I certainly learned my lesson.

After we were thoroughly stuffed, it seemed to be a good time to head to the airport. We had deliberately left extra time, so that we could take public transport, rather than a taxi, and as a SKINT traveller, I'd definitely recommend this approach!

There are machines, much like the ones you buy tickets for London Underground with, dotted around Heroes' Square. A good spot to end your trip, and purchase tickets to the airport.

Mum on the Metro

On our journey, metro then bus, we saw many more beautiful buildings, and again we felt this mutual bittersweet feeling, at leaving such a beautiful place. We felt we had so much left to see, even though our feet were throbbing with exhaustion.

Bus through Budapest

When we arrived at the airport, we still had plenty of time to kill, despite worrying about running late! I am always early, so it's nice to know I get it from my Mumma. In order to keep us awake, we stopped in at a Hungarian chain for a decadent iced coffee, which came with whipped cream!

Iced Coffee at the Airport

When we got back to my parents' house, I couldn't wait to face-plant into bed - but not before I'd hugged my Dad and brother!! Cosy on my airbed, with my borrowed sheets, my brain whirled through images of my trip. I had never felt so lucky.

If you choose Budapest for your city break, I guarantee you will leave simultaneously satisfied, and wanting more.

All my love,

Char

xxx